Some of the less commonly used tools are sure nice to have around, particularly when restoring a very damaged bike that others might toss out.  An overview of frame and threading tools for restoring an otherwise lost cause without sacrifice.

One of the best things about Park Tools is with such good quality a typical product review is unnecessary.  Tools discussed here may only be used a few times a year but I'm sure glad I have them when I need them.

A friend of mine travels the country driving a big rig and carries his bike on top of the rig so he can get some bike riding in while on the road.  Well, he was driving under a tree, which didn't quite clear the bike thereby ripping the handlebars, stem, cables and levers from the bike. It also damaged the rear wheel and bent the rear triangle of the frame along with the derailleur hanger.  Good thing the frame is made of steel as it can be "cold set" (technical term for bending steel) without too much stress and strain to the material with its resiliency.

Another tool that is useful for checking overall frame integrity is the Park Tool FAG-2 Frame Aligning gauge used to ensure proper wheel tracking, etc. 

Another bike put back into working order thanks to innovative designs and quality products from Park Tool Co.  Visit their site for any questions regarding the use of tools discussed in this article or for any how to tips and know how of Park Tool products.



Links below provided for information or purchase of tools used for this repair.

I enjoy discovering unique products for my rides, particularly when it fills a need, improves my ride and provides more riding options.  As is usually the case with my posts I look for versatile, dependable equipment that can (for the most part) do it all.

Finding a 700c touring tire with durability for both flat protection and wear that adds some much needed suspension for absorbing road vibration, protect wheels while carrying a load and recently added to my list,  improved trail riding tread.

I have been a devoted Schwalbe tire customer for several years both as a rider and with retail sales.  As my old Schwalbe Marathon tires were being held together with tire repair boots I decided to begin shopping for some new and different tires that would provide a bit more tread for light trail riding.  As luck would have it or if you don't believe in luck the bike gods were smiling on me or if you don't believe in that my savvy ability to find a good deal landed me tires I was hoping to find.  Yep, that's it or perhaps all of the above.
Vittoria tires have been described as the most economical when considering the number of miles a cyclist can get out of them and the least expensive tire any serious touring cyclist would consider.  Vittoria has a line of touring tires with puncture protection described as "double shield", "ultra shield", etc.  I wasn't concerned about a folding bead as I keep a spare Panaracer Tourguard 700 x 32 with kevlar bead as my folding spare tire.   Due to the fact I have been riding with Schwalbe tires I have never had to use that spare tire.  A neighbor brought his old Cannondale by for me to look at his tire issue with Vittoria double shield tires not seating into the rim correctly.  Here's a link to a common problem followed by other complaints regarding mounting issues with Vittoria tires.  What is defined as a "flat spot" around the tire where a portion of the reflective stripe on the side wall appears to sink into the rim while the rest of the strip is visible.  It is a very common complaint found when doing a search on these tires.  Second most common complaint is the inability to get the tire on and off the wheel when out on a ride.  Reason being that the tire is so difficult to mount that folks were using liquid soap and a host of other products I hadn't heard of before. 

With the exact same tires and issue before me I decided to try the old tried and true (baby powder can also be used) tire talc.  I put a considerable amount of tire talc into a large durable plastic bag, placed the tube into the bag and shook it thereby covering the tube with talc.  I learned this method at bike school and it has worked to help resolve so many stubborn tire mounting problems and regarding the Vittoria tires I was able to mount the tires without tire levers!  As for being able to get tire off and on again while out on a ride the talc stays on the tube once installed, unlike the other products which evaporate and necessitate carrying some type of extra liquid.  Another idea is to pack a tire jack like the VAR Nylon Tire Lever System, I keep a set of these in my hydration pack.  In my shop I use the Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack as it is a bit bulky to pack for bike touring yet is good for shop use.

Feeling good about being able to provide a solution to a common problem and now sharing that information I can praise my new tires from Vittoria for trail riding.  With the same qualities as the Vittoria Randonneur with extra tread depth and tread pattern for dispersing water and dirt this tire provides sure footing for casual trail use.  I picked up the 700x35 tires for clearance with fenders and I am so pleased to have a tire this versatile for touring.  

Ride characteristics are excellent and I like the larger tire size for bike trekking as well as an excellent winter tire. So far this tire matches up to all the qualities I mentioned earlier with improved trail riding tread as shown in photo, even the grasshopper likes it.   Click on link provided or images below for more information or to purchase.

As most mountain bikers would agree having a front and rear tire combination that provides speed, performance and solid handling is where it's at.  For a trekking and touring bike where having the tread to get out on some trails and enjoy the ride particularly for back country overnights is the best of both worlds.

Finding that just right front and rear combination can be a study in the types of riding and terrain of which a variety of riders engage in.  Tire selection is very important where you select the tires for your ride, rather than ending up with tires that limit rider's ability to feel confident about their riding style or purpose.  Suggestion here is don't settle for tires which dictate your ride to you.  This can happen by listening to the wrong information based on a variety of disinformation such as misplaced brand loyalty or a host of other "shoulds" out there and for those who have spent a decent amount of time with self proclaimed so called "experts" it can be simply annoying or damaging.  So, as with most things in this world making informed decisions from legitimate sources and one's own experience will help keep the bike rolling along the way it was meant to.

While shopping for a fast rolling rear tire I wanted something wide, but not too wide.  I wanted to be able to roll over loose surfaces without the tire "knifing in" over soft terrain.  An idea here being to select between more tread or aggressive tread.  More tread for example as with Kenda's Small Block Eight that comes in different sizes.  A 2.0 tire width is more apt to stick into loose terrain rather than roll over it as a 2.35 does.  Damp, wet surfaces and muddy trail sections can be quite challenging as well.  
An interesting point to be made here is that when you are able to determine a front and rear tire combination that works for most all conditions, selecting tires specific to their intended surface is made even easier. 
  Having a front tread that holds to the surface it is also much less likely to get clogged with mud, smaller tread design tends to clog easier yet provides less rolling resistance for a smoother ride on hard surfaces.  For this reason some folks choose to have a second wheel set mounted with tires for their other favorite riding conditions.  I currently keep a second rear wheel with a Kenda Kinetics 2.6" tire with very aggressive tread pattern and performs very well over "icky" trail conditions.  

As I have the Kenda Kinetics 2.6" tire mounted to a 24" rear wheel with extra cassette, due to sheer size of the tire it doesn't change my riding position enough to be of any consequence as shown in photo.  

All the tires being discussed here are very well reviewed and have been proven on the trails for years.  A tire combination which seems to gaining popularity for hard pack conditions with mixed loose trail conditions is the Nevegal 2.1 front combined with the Small Block Eight 2.35. 

Tread surface on my Nevegal has become a bit worn so it isn't as loud or create as much rolling resistance on pavement as it would if new.  If you're someone looking for some mountain bike touring tires that perform reasonably well on trails here is a short list of some good tires folks seem to be very pleased with a price range of $19 to $50 and more.  Links provided below. So nice to have options, Enjoy.
Happy Trails, Rideon
Kenda Slant Six  (Tread Pattern that is a mix of two tires I have reviewed here, the Small Block Eight and the Nevegal.)
Maxxis Larsen (Might be providing answer to wide tire with more aggressive tread than the Small Block Eight and less rolling resistance than the Nevegal.)
Kenda K Rad (Checkerboard style tread very similar to Holly Roller much less expensive)
WTB Nano (not as wide as other tires listed with more aggressive tread)
Kenda Small Block Eight (extremely popular, a tire that has traveled the world)
Maxxis Holly Roller (used by some of the Fat Tire bike tourers)
Maxxis Hookworm (strong durable urban tire)

In this modern era of techno gadgetry, tweets, likes, apps and such it's always a bit refreshing to bring in a bit of history to help keep things grounded.  
Our idea was to build a simple, efficient bike capable of riding on any terrain including snow.  A versatile bike that wouldn't have to be perfect for any particular riding condition but can perform solidly under most all conditions as a mountain bike touring, commuting expedition bike and has been aptly dubbed the "Rigamaroll".  Photo at right is of the bell for the Rigamaroll and depicts one of the first Safety bikes of the late 1800's.  Unlike the Penny Farthing which was very hazardous with its roller coaster style, the "Rover" Safety Bike provided a vast improvement in its simplistic grounded approach to riding so that the rider's feet could touch the ground.  Probably has something to do with one of the first Safety Bikes being dubbed the "Cogent" by Henry Lawson as cogent is defined as (of an argument or case) clear, logical, and convincing.  Just look at the two bikes pictured below, which would you rather ride and that is what the word "cogent" referred to .

What was considered a novel idea at the time proved to be so effective so as to change cycling forever.  With the "get down off your high horse" approach being not only safer, it also made the bike more accessible to a larger number of folks and really helped to kick off road development for cyclists.  Something a lot of folks, even bike folks are not aware of is the fact that the American roadways were first implemented for folks to travel around on their bikes, not cars.  

As mentioned, isn't it nice to have a reminder or refresher on bike history, particularly as I felt the need to build a bike for an area where many of the roadways are inaccessible due to the large number of fast moving cars without a bike lane.  I'm not such a politically correct bike reformer that I will "take the lane" in an area where motorists are simply not used to seeing someone on a bike on their roadways.  An "anyhow" approach went into our most recent build of the "Rigamaroll" ensuring safe handling, cargo carrying and just enough "attitude" for fun.  
Oh ya, link to free ebook below.
Cheers!

My friend Pip, a Scottish tatooed frenzied bike commuter used to ride the streets of San Francisco on his track bike until, as he put it "I learned the hard way that brakes are a good thing to have".

At the end of the day after a few days of trail riding with lots of switch backing descents which required considerable repeated brake lever action, I developed some very painful "tennis elbow".  

After years of refining and development today's bicycle disc brake systems are here to stay providing smooth, efficient stopping power. 
Particularly with hydraulic brake systems, modulation has improved with both feel and function as opposed to some of the earlier systems which were very touchy and delivered too much stopping power.  Personally, I didn't particularly enjoy bleeding the brakes systems on our rental fleet and having to wear rubber gloves while handling DOT4 brake fluid.  When we would get new bikes in for the rental fleet I was so happy to see Avid mechanical disc brakes knowing how easy they are to maintain or install.  
Here is a short list of other reasons I prefer mechanical disc brakes and am pleased with seeing them on the new touring bikes.  While pedaling a loaded touring bike the new power and control offered by a disc brake system is of obvious benefit.  Feeling confident about knowing you can stop while on a steep downgrade or descent while carrying what feels to some folks like an uncontrollable mass of weight on a loaded touring bike simply provides more joy and pleasure for the ride.   So, when I went about piecing together our most recent mountain touring bike build I chose disc brake for the obvious reason safety.  I chose mechanical over hydraulic because it's less expensive, easier to maintain, easier if even necessary to repair while trail riding or long distance touring and when paired with the Avid Speed Dial levers there provides other modulation adjustments.

I have found the very best price on this brake system and wanted to share the information with you lovely folks.
So if you're interested in getting what is considered by many to be the best mechanical disc brake set for bicycle touring and commuting on the market I have provided the link for customer review information and reviews.
Enjoy the stopping power and control.
Cheers!

Although any disc caliper compatible brake lever will work ok with the BB7 calipers the Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers will make it easier to set your brakes properly particularly when first installing.  

To avoid excessive pad wear and for better brake lever modulation and feel be sure to use Speed Dial Levers.  Inexpensive for a mid range lever but the improved performance with BB7 calipers is well worth the modest investment. 

This article covers the basics of replacing a typical mountain bike fork with a fork more suitable for bike touring and commuting.
For this bike we are keeping the old fork for times when 80 to 100mm of travel are a nice thing to have.  However, for a lighter weight, fast rolling, trail worthy utility bike I like the Kona Project 2 disc compatible fork with fender and rack braze ons.
What is discussed here is getting a proper fit, which consists of establishing two things.
1.  Keeping the handlebars level with the seat
2.  Having the handlebars align with the front axle as a nice guideline for stability and handling.  
Whereas most mountain bikes have the rider leaning considerably forward thereby applying weight and pressure to the front wheel, this method being described aims at a middle way approach.  Riding position achieved with these two methods provides a more comfortable, less aggressive riding position while still applying some weight on the front tire for steering traction on trails and other loose terrain. 
Selecting the proper fork length measured from center of axle to steering crown is an essential determination in choosing the right fork.  Many 26" forks on the market are described as suspension corrected length thus creating a long tall fork that makes the bike look like a chopper.  Another common problem is that the fork is made too short requiring the use of several stem spacers to achieve the riding position described which can create a problem with the stem as most quality stem installation instructions will suggest a maximum steer tube length between frame and stem.

Since this build is for a mountain touring bike it's unique in that most mountain bikes fit one of two categories which are cross country or XC and downhill.  So, selecting the Kona Project 2 fork which offers a hard to find length of 440mm made the process of determining proper steer tube length to meet our two objectives of riding position very easy.

Photo at right of tools necessary to perform proper fork replacement listed in order of usage.  Bearing race setter and bearing race, assorted spacers in varying thicknesses, quality hacksaw and cutting guide (Lennox is good stuff), star nut and star nut setting tool and grease.

Looking for a Disc Brake Compatible front rack for bike touring?  Me too.  Found Anything to purchase? Me neither.  However, there just might be some front racks not being marketed as "disc brake compatible" that work.  Here's some new information from my research on this common dilemma.

I love Old Man Mountain racks.  Ten years ago or so I had one of their front racks on my Mountain bike with Rock Shox fork.  As I chose different bikes over the years as my primary mode of transportation I used to transfer that trusty front rack to whatever it was I was riding.  I eventually sold the rack with a bike I had for sale in our old bike shop.  Since that time I have used a couple other much less expensive front racks such as the Axiom Journey DLX, Delta Megaloader with very satisfactory results.  Neither of the racks broke or adversely affected bike's handling.  
In keeping with the changing times and bike market finding a disc compatible front rack is a good idea and finding one that doesn't cost over $100 is an even better idea.  I understand as well as anyone that the "you get what you pay for" applies to purchasing bicycle touring and commuting accessories as much or more so than any other interest.  Keeping this in mind I tend to look for information from industry leaders who have proven track records of innovation and reputation.  I like Kona, the company has helped in keeping bikes fun for a long time now.  So, when I discovered the 2014 Kona Sutra (photo above) marketed as shown in photo with the Blackburn Lo Rider Rack, which doesn't claim to be disc brake compatible I thought, hmm is that the tried and true P2 fork? Yep.  At a price tag on the rack of $40, beginning to seem like a good idea.

With the growing trend and popularity of expedition touring bikes I see quite a few folks embracing and keeping 26" wheel bikes as their ride of choice. Surly's line of 26" forks seems to dominate the market and show in most popular search results as well as Dimension and a couple others. 
Not that there is anything wrong with those forks, but from a touring perspective having the multiple braze ons and brake bosses provide multiple rack, fender and or basket options.  I contacted Kona to inquire about the front rack on the Sutra being just as compatible with the 26" P2 fork and I did describe the 26" model specifically despite his denial of that in his response.  Here was the reply from tech department.

This article is meant to simply share information I've found while researching for my own mountain bike build project.  Haven't made a decision thus far on what type of rack I want for the front, will wait to test ride with fork on to see how it handles.  Always a Good idea.
Cheers!
Rideon

In order to get this post current here is the rack I settled on for my bike commuter, off road touring bike.  Minoura MT 4000-SF Front Pannier Rack.  Installed easily on the Kona P2 fork and all feels well in my world these days.  If you're in the market for a disc compatible quality steel front touring bike rack Check out Minoura's as it is made to fit both twenty niner or 26" wheel size and can also be mounted to a suspension fork.  Link for more Information regarding MInoura MT 4000-SF front pannier rack.

This rack can also be found at the Bike Tourings' Store check often to see if it's available as this rack sells quickly at less than seventy bucks you can't beat it.

Please Note:  After publishing the following blog article, Delta replied to my inquiry with this:Tracy Mills replied:
Dear Rideon,
Thank you for contacting Delta Cycle. I noticed from your blog that you have adapted the rack and hardware to work on the bicycle. We appreciate your attached blog. We will bring it to the attention of our tech department at our next job meeting.
Best regards,
Tracy

Anyhow, felt that was worth sharing and says something about the company, they care.

Getting a standard rear rack to be compatible with disc brake proved to be a bit challenging but worked out just fine.  Here's how I "got her done".  Delta Megarack Ultra Disc Adapter and some slight modifications to the rack stays, making a spacer for the drive side as the adapter fits the non drive side.  

Several years ago a customer brought his 26" disc mountain bike to the shop wanting me to install an Axiom Journey Disc brake specific rear rack and the problem was getting the rack stay not to interfere with the brake caliper.  Some filing and shaving away of the rack stay was necessary to accommodate the movement of the caliper.  

Reading some of the bike forums I heard a lot of folks having problems installing a rear rack on their disc brake mountain bikes.  This is due in part to a number of varying factors which are far too many to list. Including frame manufacturer, brake manufacturer, whether or not there are existing braze on's to accept the rack stays, etc.  

Based on this knowledge and experience I decided to install an old Delta Mega Rack I found lying around and ordered a Delta Disc Adapter.  First of all, the adapter works fine by curving around the caliper of my Avid BB7 Caliper. Simply sliding out the straight steel adjusting rod that came with the rack and replacing with the disc adapter, bolt in to place, done. Nope. First problem presented itself when the pre drilled threaded holes of the adapter wouldn't line up with the pre-drilled hole(s) of the adjustable rack stay. I would be very interested in knowing if anyone else has had this problem.  I will be sending a link of this blog post to Delta.  

Next problem was the rack was not centered properly over the wheel so as to be in line with the center of the bike's frame.  Due to the curve of the adapter the rack was being pulled to the left (non drive side).  Solution was to make a spacer for the drive side frame mounting point without creating a weak point for rack load.  
Some racks come with spacers for this sort or thing and I had some extras in my parts drawer.  Having too long a bolt and spacer would create a weak point and by spreading the rack stays to make it fit would most likely have caused the rear dropouts to be "pinched".  I used a 23mm allen bolt with an 8mm long  by 12mm (outside diameter) round aluminum spacer that I cut to length.  I then added two small lock washers for the the threads to be flush with the inside of the frame's mounting hole.  As it was not necessary to create a spacer of equal length to the space created by the disc adapter on the opposite side for the rack to be centered and balanced with the frame.
I like to use the high speed cordless rotary tool from Porter Cable with a Dremel heavy duty cut off wheel to start the cut and then used a hacksaw to finish the cut.  Dremel de-burring bit used to remove sharp edges and such.

All in all I'm very pleased with how the installation went, not nearly as dreadful as some of the descriptions I have read elsewhere and the design has a very clean look.  Due to the fact that I found the Delta rack with my spare bike stuff and that the rack happens to have the Delta Disc Adapter option I had nothing to lose with this project. The Delta Megarack is very well reviewed, though my search for information relating to the design flaw from Delta produced no results, so thought I'd give it a "blog about".
Hmm, feeling even better about this as a lady bug came in and landed on top of the rack soon after posting this blog article.
Cheers!  

NOTE: Despite my earlier criticism of the Axiom Journey Rack, two are now available for disc compatibility with a re designed model.  Enjoying this build of the "Rigmaroll" and looking forward to building on it some more.  

NOTE:  It seems that the Delta Megarack Disc Adapter is meant to be used with the Megarack Ultra Universal Disc Rack had to do some thorough research to discover this.  However, reviews claim that because the rack is described as a "Disk Rack" later to learn they have to purchase the adapter(s) separately is causing annoyance with Delta's customers.  This article helps clear up the confusion, good design and idea just needs some clarification from Delta.

Getting a flat while commuting to work or touring about the countryside can be a hassle. Knowing what can help reduce (or for the most part) completely prevent  you from having to stop and tend to a leaky tube can make your rides more enjoyable.  For Sure.

Several years ago while working at a bike shop in New Mexico the most common repair and sales were fixing flats and adding flat prevention tires, tubes, sealants, tire liners, etc. I soon discovered that a section of the multi use path of approximately half mile or more was covered by thorns and goat heads.  City workers would use string trimmers to cut down the thorny weeds so that the path was littered with the debris.  Folks riding with "thorn resistant tubes" didn't have much luck either.  Our goal was to be able to ride the length of the bike path without getting a flat while the thorns accumulated so much on the tires that it would rub against the fenders!  Our first goal was to determine what tires to stock in a variety of price ranges in order to meet most folks budget concerns but still deliver a quality solution.  So, tires?  Anything with Kevlar.  

These days Kevlar tires can be found even at some department stores for about twenty bucks.  Get online and shop for some of the top end brands offering long wearing tread design, folding beads, etc and you can spend fifty plus per tire.   Kenda K Shield, Panaracer Tourguard, Vittoria Ultrashield and Schwalbe's latest Green Guard technology all offer quality flat protection in a variety of tread patterns and tire sizes.  We decided to add a few different tires from a variety of those manufacturers to our inventory.  
Once we decided on our basis of tires we sought out tire liners.  We tried a variety from Slime, Mr. Tuffy and a generic recycled plastic tire liner very inexpensive in comparison to the others from United Bike Supply.  We also determined that the "self sealing" tubes which were available at the time just weren't going to offer enough "sealing" for the challenges offered by the negligent weed whacking crew.  

Here's one example of our successes and is what I currently ride with today.  Schwalbe 700x32 Marathon Touring tire, 700c slime tire liner and a Slime self sealing presta valve tube.  I had a difficult time locating removable core presta valve tubes at a reasonable price to be able to simply add the slime so I decided we would try our luck with that combo.  It worked!  And we laughed at the sight of those tires holding their own without fail.  Another success with 26" tires we used the IRC Duro Metro with Slime Liner and (what came to be our self sealing standard) Slime Tubeless Sealant that claims to seal a hole up to 1/4 inch and is typically used with ATV tires. With the small chunks of black rubber added to the mix we were only able to pump that stuff into a schrader valve tube. I ordered it in bulk with pump dispenser and didn't tell anyone what we were putting in their tubes unless asked.  I liken it to filling an empty Tamari or soy sauce bottle with Bragg's Liquid Aminos for our girls.  I don't feel required to explain how I'm helping.  

Word traveled fast and sales were soaring.  Everyone came to get "the same tires as so and so" and "do the same thing for my bike as you did for so and so".    In a few months we saw less and less flat repairs so I had to send someone out to the bike path with glass shards and roofing nails to bring some work around.  Haha not really, but a customer made the observation of my lack of flat repair work and said "let that be a lesson to you".  
Alright, so I just thought I'd give it a "blog about" and share that lesson with you nice folks, tried and true flat prevention that works!
Note:  In very cold climates my experience has been that Slime can freeze and clump in the tube rendering it worthless come spring.  While living in Colorado Stop Flats or Mr. Tuffy liners and Panaracer Tourguard tires worked fine without need of self sealing tube.
Also, for attempting to patch any self sealing tube I recommend trying the Slime Rubber Patch Kit and burning the cement before applying the patch as it is reported to aid faster adhesion and permanency.
Visit our Bike Tourings' Store to shop for any of the products mentioned in this article.

Here is a list of four books for the Bike Tourist's book shelf.  Each offers its own unique style in presentation of information and type of information. Click on any of the titles for information or to purchase.
1. Zinn & The Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance by Lennard Zinn
Most folks in the bike biz are familiar with this Colorado based frame builder extraordinaire.  Considered to be one of the foremost bike experts in the bike country Lennard Zinn offers tips and tricks for getting things done whether you have the money for fancy tools or not.  
One of my customers while working in Colorado was 6'10" and I just couldn't get him on a bike where he didn't look an adult on a kid's bike, so he went to Lennard Zinn and had one built.  And of course Lennard supplied him with a good fit.

2. Park Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair by Calvin Jones
This is the book used by Park Tool as course material for Park Tool School workshops.  Park Tool has set and industry standard for bike shops around the country after Howard Hawkins and Art Engstrom started Park Tool in 1963.  The Park Tool site offers a vast amount of information from how to repairs to how to use a particular tool.  When their repair manual was first published it was welcomed by cyclist's everywhere as an easy and concise reference for any bike shop. Now in its third edition.

3. Richard's New Bicycle Book by Richard Ballantine
I have written a review of this book already Click Here to read it. A classic fun and informative read of rare quality.

4. Bicycling Guide to Complete Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Todd Downs
This is the manual used at United Bike Institute of Oregon and I still have mine from 1999.  Nice thing about this book is that it covers both mountain and road bikes, bike fit and is perhaps the best all in one resource of the four.  I have found it a bit harder to accurately access information, where as the Park book is easier and quicker to reference the book by Todd Downs has its place as an all inclusive beginner's guide covering a wide range of topics. Now in its fifth edition.

There are many good cycling books out there.  For the DIY, getting a better understanding of your bike or for advanced needing a refresher, the books listed here are used by certified techs. and teachers of the bike industry due to the quality method of presenting the information.